The nicest rural square in Spain

 

I am walking the today’s stage relatively quickly and easily, in spite of the problem that it takes a lot of kilometres (ten this time) before I can have my first coffee. That is why my mood is not too good for the first hour, and I am grumbling a little bit about dragging my heavy backpack so early in the morning. Once the sun is shining and I have found my rhythm my good humour is back again rapidly. There is a refreshing wind today which makes the temperature more bearable. After walking eight kilometres, I pass a border pile, announcing that I am leaving the Rioja region and am entering Castile, the heart of Spain. Shortly afterwards I find the first bar that is open, and at last I get my cafe con leche in the village of Recedillos del Camino.

A few kilometres later, to my surprise, I find that Iam catching up with Hans, the hospitalero from Nájera He has some holidays, which he uses to walk a couple of stages again. He tells me, in Belorado there are two refugios and he advises me to take the first one, in the former presbytery of the church of Santa Maria. The other is more modern, but this one has a more authentic atmosphere. Already at a quarter to twelve we are standing before the gate, which will not open before one o' clock The church has a typical Spanish tower with three openings in it for the church bells. On the tower there are at least five stork nests. I have never seen such numbers of storks other than when walking the Camino.

 

The nice rural square

 

Already a considerable number of people are waiting for the refugio to open. As there is enough time before it opens, I lay down my backpack in front of the refugio and do some shopping in the village. I also do a little sightseeing. Belorado appears to have one of the nicest rural small squares of Spain. Around it are houses with arcades, many sidewalk cafes, a church, a town hall and a ring of sycamores around a music stand.

 

Church next to the refugio of Belorado

 

Two Swiss ladies, who speak many languages, manage the refugio. I will remember this refugio for its particularly cosy living room with kitchen. It is remarkable that nobody wants to eat outside. I make baked beans with sausage and fresh tomatoes with a cup of yoghurt. For the first time since Roncesvalles I have the opportunity to attend a pilgrim blessing in the adjacent church. Before it starts some elderly women from the village are praying the rosary together. Also at the pilgrim blessing several people from the village remain here. The priest is speaking clearly and slowly so that I can understand most of it. According to him doing a pilgrimage is hard work, not material, but physically and mentally and will lead to spiritual enrichment. I totally agree with that! After the communion the pilgrims are invited to follow him to a separate chapel. There we pray together and the priest has a personal word for everyone. This really gives me the courage to go on and I am glad that I have been here this evening. After that I read a little bit in the books and illustrated magazines I find in abundance in the living room. After having written some remarks in the guest book it is time to go to bed.