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The
monumental marble pyramid of Khan Tengri is the
second highest mountain in the Tien Shan mountain
range. Khan Tengri being a mysterious summit, has
many names given by different peoples inhabiting
this region. Among them: Prince of Spirits,
Master of the Skies. It is unspeakably beautiful
and grand in the goldish-pink rays of the rising
sun or in blood-red gleams of the sunset. At once
the Khan Tengri Peak is burning like a giant
torch, set on fire at the height of seven
thousand meters. This summit is justly seen as
one of the most beautiful in the world. For the first time Khan
Tengri was conquered by Ukrainian mountaineers in
1931. They climbed along the West ridge of the
peak, having penetrated through the gorge of the
South Inylchek glacier. We will climb Khan Tengri
using this route which is considered a classical
one, being very popular amongst climbers. From
the camp on the South Inylchek glacier the route
goes along the Semyonovski glacier squeezed on
both sides by powerful slopes of Khan Tengri and
Chapaev peak (6731m.). Further up, a wide glacier
cup leads to the western pass (5900m.). Here the
rock part of the route begins. The ascent along
the west ridge demands of climbers undoubted
abilities and skills for climbig rock at an
altitude of 6200-7000m. The average steepness of
the ridge is about 50 degrees. One of the most
difficult parts of the route (6400-6800 m.) will
be preliminary prepared by local mountain guides.
There will be fixed ropes. During the ascent we
will use four intermediate camps.
TYPICAL
ITINERARY
- 1/2nd days.
Arrival in Tashkent. Transfer Tashkent -
Bishkek - Issik-kul lake (1600m.).
- 3rd-day Trip
to Karakol base camp (4100m.).
- 4-th day
Acclimatisation.
- 5-th day
Helicopterflight from base camp to South
Inylchek glacier. Medical examination,
route consultations, preparation for the
ascent.
- 6-th day
Traverse south Inylchek towards
Khan-Tengri peak; in 7 km. pitch camp 1
on the right-lateral moraine.
- 7-th day
Ascent along Semenovsky Glacier to the
bulkhead (5900 m.) between Chapaev and
Khan-Tengri Peaks. Set up camp 2 (dig a
hole or pitch a tent).
- 8-th day
Acclimatisation.
- 9-th day
Descent to the base camp.
- 10/11-th days
Rest. Preparation for the ascent.
- 12-13-th days
Ascent to the bulkhead (camp 2).
- 14-th day
Ascent to the mark 6700m (camp3).
- 15-th day
Ascent of the summit. Descend to camp 3.
- 16-th day
Descend to the base-camp.
- 17/18-th days
Days of reserve (Foul weather).
Eventually rest at the Issyk-Kul Lake.
- 19-th day
Helicopterflight from South Inylchek
glacier to Base camp Karakol.
- 20/21th days
Transfer to Tashkent.
- 22-th day.
Departure from Tashkent.
Optimum group is
10 persons. Optimum season: 1 July to 30 August.
In addition, this programme may be prolonged by
sightseeng of ancient towns - Samarkand, Bukhara,
Tashkent.
Prices in
US $ (22 days)
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group size
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1-3
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4-6
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7-9
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10
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payment per
person
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1340
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1290
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1240
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1180
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